abstract
| - 咖喱肉湯(Mulligatawny;ˈmɐlɨɡəˈtɑːni; ()是一種源自南印度的濃湯,以咖喱的味道為主體。這種湯的英文名稱源自泰米爾語的「辣椒」(மிளகாய்)和「水」(தண்ணீர்)。這種湯自19世紀下半葉從印度傳入英國,其烹調方式及配料歷年來不斷轉變,已沒有一種單一的原始版本。這個濃湯的配方最初是作為一種醬料使用,而且本來亦沒有使用肉類。 直到傳入英國時,才在烹調加入肉類。直至現在,這道湯的起源地馬德拉斯(即今日印度的欽奈)的食譜仍然不加肉類。在英語文獻,最早提及這道菜式的文獻在1784年。 1827, William Kitchiner, wrote that it had become fashionable in Britain: "Mullaga-Tawny signifies pepper water. The progress of inexperienced peripatetic Palaticians has lately been arrested by this outlandish word being pasted on the windows of our Coffee-houses; it has, we believe, answered the "Restaurateurs" purpose, and often excited John Bull, to walk in and taste - the more familiar name of Curry Soup- would perhaps, not have had sufficient of the charms of novelty to seduce him from his much loved Mock-turtle. It is a fashionable soup, and a great favourite with our East Indian friends, and we give the best receipt we could procure for it." By the mid 1800s, "Wyvern", the pen-name of Arthur Robert Kenney Herbert (1840-1916), wrote in his popular "Culinary jottings" that "really well-made mulligatunny is, ..., a thing of the past." He also noted that this simple recipe partaken by poorer natives of Madras as made by "Mootoosamy" was made by pounding "a dessert-spoonful of tamarind, six red chillies, six cloves of garlic, a tea-spoonful of mustard seed, a salt-spoonful of fenugreek seed, twelve black peppercorns, a teas-spoonful of salt, and six leaves of karay-pauk. When worked to a paste, he adds a paste he adds a pint of water, and boils the mixture for a quarter of an hour. While this is going on, he cuts up two small onions, puts them into a chatty, and fries them in dessert-spoonful of ghee till they begin to turn brown, when he strains the pepper-water into the chatty, and cooks the mixture for five minutes, after which it is ready. The pepper-water is, of course, eaten with a large quantity of boiled rice, and is a meal in itself. The English, taking their ideas from this simple composition, added other condiments, with chicken, mutton, etc., thickened the liquid with flour and butter,and by degrees succeeded in concoting a soupe grasse of a decidedly acceptable kind." 芸香科月橘屬的可因氏月橘是咖喱肉湯的重要材料,為濃湯提供了咖喱的口味。
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