Quebecers are big cucumber consumers, whether the cuke is fresh or pickled. Julian Armstrong, food editor of the Montreal Gazette, considers this salad perfect picnic food because it's made a day ahead, chilled, and can be transported in a wide jar or plastic container to the picnic, then drained slightly and tipped out on to the lettuce of your choice. Colorful, thanks to slices of red onion, it may be made with the long, English ("seedless") cucumbers, now available from greenhouses, or regular cucumbers. Armstrong adapted the recipe from Mollie Katzen's cookbook The Enchanted Broccoli Forest (Ten Speed Press, 1992). It's particularly popular with the calorie-conscious as it's fat-free.